What is the real purpose/function of so called
"foreign" restaurants in our county?
Are we really showing diversity, or just
another instance of cultural appropriation?
In Greek restaurants all around Fairfield county and as far as I'm
aware, the entire northeast, several dips, like tzatziki, hummus, and tapenade
are served Grecian bread and pita, in a classic Grecian meal. I always thought
that when visiting these restaurants I was eating the same food that the
residents of Greece were serving at their dinner tables. However, can we really
be sure we are eating a genuine foreign cuisine? What if these foreign
restaurants have been conditioned to include food on their menus that is
actually very far from their traditional cuisine, only to accommodate the
tastes of Americans? One of these accommodations that I observe constantly is Chinese
food being served at most Japanese restaurants and vice versa. From what I’ve
heard from my friends and relatives, this is because most Americans can't tell
the difference between the two. Some accommodations are more subtle, like what
I’ve decided to call “The Hummus Incident.” It happened last week when my
family was in Greece, visiting a local restaurant. My father is a lover of
hummus, and since he is a proud Jew his penchant for this middle eastern
delicacy never surprised us. What surprised us, however, was that hummus (while
served regularly at Greek restaurants in the US) was actually a nonexistent food
in real Greece. The waiter looked offended when my father asked casually for
hummus.
Hummus?
He took a second to
recognize what my father was talking about, and then he said; "no, we
don't have any hummus. This is not the middle east. You are in Greece. Here,
the closest thing we have is pureed chickpeas."
His sneer was obvious. My father balked, and I felt chagrined on his
behalf, mentally face palming for his cultural “faux-pas.”
My father settled for the chickpea paste. As expected, it did not
compare. It was shocking to me that my father could be so accidentally
ignorant. He is generally a very respectful and open-minded man, especially
when it comes to other cultures. I had obviously known that hummus was a
middle-eastern thing, and middle-eastern only. (Although I admit that is only
because I watched this one short film that mentioned it in Hebrew school) But
then I came to realize that it was understandable my father had made this
mistake. He had been conditioned by living in Fairfield County to believe that
there were certain cultural traditions that in actuality, never existed and
were probably forced upon the foreign restaurants. This revelation brings up
some very interesting and nearly unanswerable questions. Can we pick and choose
what parts of foreign cultures to embrace? Are we really embracing them if we
do so? If not, how can we truly embrace a culture without “Americanizing” it?
Just some questions to think on...
Great questions. Gish Jen wrote about Chinese-American restaurant owners in the 1970s finally embracing stereotypes of themselves and promoting board games like "Chop Suey" in order to "be embraced," as you nicely put it, by America.
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